Chatelaines, a Woman's Toolkit!
Krista came across this terrific video introducing the chatelaine and asked me to do a little research. As the company’s “resident historian,” I was more than happy to do a little digging. It turns out to be a fascinating piece of history!
This video from ArtofSoft does a great job introducing the chatelaine as "a woman's wearable toolkit." The video is only a few seconds long, and it's set to beautiful music, so watch it and then read on.
So, what is a chatelaine?
Chatelaines were decorative waist accessories designed to hold everyday tools and personal items. Women could customize them with keys, mirrors, watches, sewing supplies, thimbles, lucky charms, and more. The name originates from the French for lady or mistress of the castle. Primarily worn by women, even men wore chatelaines, attached to a belt or waistband, carrying small tools, keys, a watch, or other personal items. Chatelaines were practical but also decorative, and in large houses, they conveyed a certain authority.
A little history
Though comparably rough in design and composition, the chatelaine has roots back to Ancient Rome: the chatelaine held practical items like ear scoops, nail cleaners, and tweezers. In Roman Britain, women wore 'chatelaine brooches' from which toilet sets were suspended. During Medieval times, chatelaines were functional belt clips with mail or metal spirals, carrying keys, tweezers, or small tools.
A Victorian-era chatelaine, the height of this societal norm, could have held any of these: keys, a mirror, a pencil, perfume, smelling salts, a buttonhook, a watch, or a thimble. They might feature Biblical inscriptions or intricate artwork and precious jewels.
At home, upper-class women kept essential goods in a high society chatelaine. Tools and accessories like spectacle cases, little notebooks, perfume bottles, a tiny pocket for a coin, a handkerchief, and a vial for smelling salts were attached.
Materials
A variety of materials were used, from ribbons or metal chains to the finest silver or gold, often engraved and set with jewels. Worn by noblewomen or ladies of the house, chatelaines were made of silver or gold. The chatelaine evolved from a chain for carrying important objects to an elaborate luxury accessory for those who could
afford it.
19th-century French enameled chatelaine. Culturical World Art
Polished steel chatelaines were very durable. This working household chatelaine in plain steel has thirteen chains from one horseshoe clip, hung with a notebook, a mirror locket, a file, a thimble, and a pierced ball.
Cost
This Victorian and exquisite chatelaine, made by Charles Miller of London in 1890, sold for 576 lbs. in 2010. Two winged cherubs hold five original attachments: a notebook, a propelling pencil, a scissors holder (steel scissors), a circular pincushion, and a pill box.
The cost of a basic chatelaine in 1903 was about £1–£3 sterling. To purchase an ornately designed piece from top silversmiths, one would pay £3–£6+ ($5 - $15 USD). In today's antique market, that would be tens to hundreds of dollars. That's a lot of money for a "tool kit." It's no wonder women made their own!
If you find an antique chatelaine at an antique store or your great-aunt leaves you one in her will, lucky you, you can use The Antique Chatelaines Identification Guide to determine its origin and value. Though they were widely used, few have survived, so if you find one, it may be quite valuable!
The variety of styles and uses is mind-boggling. A late 19th-century French chatelaine contains a wax seal holder, pencil, notebook, and chain mail purses.
Chatelaines were also service tools for nurses or related to hobbies. This one from 1903 (left) was used by a nurse from the Toronto General Hospital Training School of Nursing, established in April 1881. It held a small pouch, thimble, whistle, pair of scissors, and a buttonhook. Women often made their own from household pieces, or purchased them from jewelry makers like Tiffany & Co. The one on the right might be worn by a superior who could afford a more expensive tool kit.
Frockflicks
A chatelaine wasn't just a useful tool; it was a marker of status, authority, and wealth. Mistress Appleyard is an austere and intimidating authority in "Picnic at Hanging Rock".
Mrs. Hughes has a respected and prestigious job as head housekeeper in Downton Abbey. The mark of her authority is her chatelaine. She makes the chambermaids and houseboys tremble with her authority, and even causes Mr. Carson to sit up and take notice on occasion.
Modern Chatelaines
This fun reproduction from Jewelry Wearable Art holds scissors, a thread cutter, measuring tape, needle threader, stitch marker, and more. This would be a very fun gift!
If you enjoyed this brief introduction to chatelaines, maybe you'd like to make your
own. This video, How to Make a Chatelaine, walks you through the process.
So, what happened to this practical and versatile tool? Women's handbags became larger and more common, and wristwatches took the place of suspended watches. Looser fashions after WW1made it impractical to wear a chatelaine. As society changed, they fell out of style.
Have you made your own "quilting toolkit"? We'd love to see them.
I hope you enjoyed that.
Happy Sunday, everyone,
Crystal King
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